je v anglescini, skopirano iz www.clio16valver.co.uk
lpSid napisal/-a:This guide is based upon Haynes. I find most things in Haynes are never quite as you expect, so thought I'd give a guide from my perspective and experience, and point out silly things that took longer than they should because the manual is not clear and the job was all new to me.
I now understand why some guys say it's easier to take the engine out to do this job. Hopefully if you do attempt this, learning from my mistakes will save you time. I could do this in less than half the time now!
Also this is for the timing belt only. It may be possible to do the tensioner and idler as well with the engine in the car, but mine felt fine, and the work didn't seem worth it.
Firstly you'll want to remove the bonnet. This can be done on your own I believe, but why struggle? Only four bolts that hold the bonnet onto the hinges and it's off. You may want to mark the location of the hinges on the bonnet to aid in putting it back on with little need for adjustments.
Disconnect the battery (I removed this as well to charge, but it aids in removing the air box which is next).
Remove the airbox. This is done by undoing seven clips around the edge of the airbox, and three bolts that run through the airbox.
This enables you to separate the airbox into two. Removing from the throttle requires you to undo the three nuts inside the airbox and one outside the airbox on the radiator side. Do not undo this last one just from above, as you will break the tab on the airbox (as I did!) There are a couple of tubes running to the airbox on the throttle side, which will need disconnecting.
Jack up the front of the car, and take the right hand side wheel off. Inside the arch you'll need to remove two of the shields. The one at the front has a couple of pop off 'mushrooms' at the top and a screw on the outside edge, and a nut underneath at it's front edge (front of the bumper). The second one just pops out. You'll need to separate the brake warning sensor wire as that'll remain. You should now see the crankshaft pulley for the auxiliary belt.
Now we need to remove the right headlight. First you need to pop the indicator out. To do this you need to poke a screwdriver through a hole in the chassis and push the tab on the back of the indicator assembly. Pull the indicator forward and disconnect the wiring plug. Then you need to remove the front grill. It's only two screws and the grill is clipped on. This may be different on a phase 1 with its different grill.
Next take out the headlight. Pop the black back off, unplug the two electrical plugs and the headlight height adjuster. This needs to be turned anticlockwise as you would a normal screw thread. About a quarter turn will do it. Then you need to pull the ball joint out of the fitting, and this requires you to yank it back. Don't go mad, you don't want to break it <g> Unbolt the headlight and whip it out. (3 bolts on the top.)
To gain better access to the auxiliary belt tensioner you unbolt (one bolt at front,) the bracket that sits in front of it. To allow the bracket to go up you may have to disconnect one of the tubes from the charcoal canister and allow the headlight adjust cable that runs through it and across the front of the car to rise up by allowing it out of the restraining clip.
Now you take the tension out of the auxiliary belt by first loosening the allen bolt (7mm) in the middle of the tensioner, and then turning the tensioner with a (22mm) spanner in a clockwise sense. You may now remove the belt.
Even with the bracket moved out of the way, access is tight. You will probably need to make use of a hex bit that is turned by a ring spanner. Here you can see (just) the bit in the allen key bolt. The bit has a 10mm body.
Remove the auxiliary belt. Hopefully your belt will look better than this. To my shame, this is the original belt. That's 14 years old!
You're now ready to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. For this to happen, you need to prevent the crank from rotating, so you will employ the willing services of an assistant <g>. (Anyone will do, as it's an easy task). Whilst they hold a flat-ended screwdriver in the teeth on the flywheel, such that it pushes against the gearbox bellhousing, you loosen the bolt. You do not remove it though.
In the picture you can see the teeth (this is from above, looking down, from where the airbox once was). I removed the timing sensor so as not to risk any damage, and the screwdriver needs to go towards the top of the pictured teeth, as this is the way the crank will try to turn.
Now you need to take the weight of the engine by using a jack on the sump. Place a stand under the engine as well in case the jack slowly drops and to be on the safe side. Jacks and stands should make use of pieces of wood to prevent damage to the sump.
Remove the plastic cover from the engine mount upper bracket (one torx screw), and then the bracket itself. There are 4 nuts and bolts. If the engine is not lifted enough, the top of the mount will try to 'pinch' with the top of the cambelt cover. If this happens raise the engine a little more.
You now want to take off the lower plastic cam cover. It’s just two bolts that you can easily see and get to via the wheel arch.
Haynes then says remove the plastic intermediate cover. This is the one directly below the metal cover that covers the camshaft pulleys. This minor remark hides a very tricky job with the limited space available.
Personally I had three major problems with getting this off. Firstly a lack of tools. There are four 10mm bolts to get out. I needed a swan neck spanner for the lower and upper front bolts. Undo the lower one from the wheel arch (ie. below). The rear upper one can be done with a small socket (ie 1/4" drive) as a larger one will not fit (ie 1/2 inch drive). The rear lower can be attacked with a ring spanner (but not too much offset angle to the spanner's head).
My second problem/mistake was that I was not jacking the engine high enough! A comment in the tech section said not to worry about jacking too high, as you'll catch the downpipe on the subframe before you do any damage (still be careful though!) I thought that that was happening to me, but I was actually running out of travel on the jack (I'd put the car fairly high on the stands). Once I finally spotted my error, a thicker piece of wood between the jack and sump and I was off again. The reason for this extra height is because of the next problem...
The third problem was not realising that the plastic channel for the pipes at the front of the intermediate cover were not part of it. The Renault dialogys show it as one item but you (once the engine is high enough) can pop the channel off. If the engine is not high enough, the bracket that we moved out of the way to get to the auxiliary belt tensioner, will get in the way. With the engine higher, the channel goes over this bracket (push or bolt it down again).
In the photo (1) shows a sensor(?) removed from the bulkhead. This drastically improves access for the lower rear bolt. (2) is the engine mount, and to again improve access I removed the upright part. Not sure if you need to do this, but it would have been in the way when pulling the intermediate cover out. (3) shows the pipes that run in front of the cover, and in doing so hide the front upper bolt. (4) is the intermediate cover, and the two holes are where the pipe channel locates itself.
You can also see on the power steering reservoir pipe the routing clip that holds the pipe to the suspension upright/tower. This gets in the way, particularly when pulling the intermediate cover out, so remove it (unscrew). I put it here so as not to lose it.
If you do unbolt the engine mount, make sure you make plenty of marks so as to ensure you bolt it back down exactly where it should be. Each bolt had two thick washers so be sure to mark everything. In my case I actually marked some 'scum' that came away with the washers, so try to clean up the mount before you mark it. I used a pencil to mark the chassis. The bolts nearer the engine hold the mount down and the separate upright part. The bolts nearer the wings hold the separate lower part to the chassis. I took all four bolts out so as to allow the parts to separate without bending the tags (they’ll probably snap otherwise).
In this picture you see the pipe channel as I've called it that cost me so much time! You can also see that I've removed the pulley off of the power steering pump. I did this to improve access, but this is probably not necessary. If you also want to take it off, you need to poke a screwdriver though it and the bracket behind to stop it rotating, as you undo the torx screws. It's not too difficult, but it adds to the time of the job.
Anyway, the front upper bolt of the intermediate cover requires the channel to be off of the cover to gain access. Also note that the pipes clip to the rear edge of this cover. In the picture you can see the clips on the left edge. In the dark restricted space it’s easy to miss them!
Here's an image of the timing belt covers, the arrow is pointing to the intermediate cover with that pipe channel on it.
Removing the top (metal) cam cover is now fairly straightforward, just take care with the torx heads of the bolts. There are five bolts, the lower of the two middle ones is slightly longer. Off she pops. If only the intermediate cover was as easy
Now you are ready to turn the engine over via the crankshaft pulley bolt. With a 19mm socket turn the engine clockwise until the timing marks line up. There are three marks. One on the flywheel (not in the picture, but this is where they'll be).
The other two marks are on the camshaft pulleys. Here is the one on the inlet camshaft, lined up with the notch on the cam cover.
So you now have your engine at TDC for piston 1. You can lock your engine's crankshaft in this position by putting a small rod into one of the crankshaft webs via a bolt hole under the engine tag. This is located on the front of the engine, on the gearbox side. I didn't bother with this.
Also it would be helpful to lock the two camshaft pulleys together, but requires a special tool, which I don't have, so again didn't bother.
You now remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Turning the engine round with this bolt may have tightened it a little, so you may need to hold the flywheel with a screwdriver again. You also remove the crankshaft pulley. Haynes suggests using a puller if it's tight, but mine popped off easy enough.
Double check the timing marks, and for comparison, mark the belt. You want the two pulley timing marks, the direction of rotation (clockwise) and the pulley mark on the crankshaft pulley. You have equivalent marks on a new belt, and by comparison with the old belt you can be sure you're all OK.
Undo the timing belt tensioner's bolt and take the tension out of the belt. Tighten up the bolt again (not fully) and you can now take the belt off of the pulleys. Even with the tension off, the belt on mine was still fairly snug, so pull it a little off of each pulley at a time and keep the belt square, or you will just put tension into the belt.
Once removed the camshaft pulleys will likely move a little as the valve springs push on the cams (unless you use a locking tool).
Compare the belts. Your timing marks on the belts should tally with the new belt.
Give the pulleys and the block a wipe down. Solvents may damage the bearings in the idler and tensioner (apparently) so I didn't use them.
Put the new belt on, tallying up the timing marks. Due to the slight movement of the camshafts, you may have to 'encourage' the camshafts round, and you can do this with a spanner on the camshaft pulley bolts. (This isn’t ideal, but you don’t apply a lot of force so unlikely to give you any problems). I got some help for this part as you need more than two hands if the pulleys aren’t locked.
Once on, tension the belt. The test given for the correct tension is to apply 100N (about 10kg) between the camshaft pulleys, and you are looking for 3mm of movement, plus or minus 1/2mm. A spring balance and steel ruler can be used to apply the force and measure the deflection in one.
Rotate the engine two full revolutions, which is one revolution of the camshafts, (remove pin if you used one) and re-check the tension. I had difficulty getting enough tension into the belt, but found that when turning the engine via the pulley bolt the belt on the rear of the engine goes slack, so enables you to tension more. I wasn't able to correctly torque the tensioner bolt, so had to give it a best guess (try to note how hard it was to undo etc).
This picture shows my lovely new belt on the car. The white mark was the alignment mark on the crankshaft pulley when putting the belt on.
Now you want to tighten the pulley bolt, again using a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth. You want 90 to 100 Nm (66 to 74 lbf ft). Don’t forget the pulley!
Refit the engine's timing sensor.
You now want to refit the upper and intermediate covers. I put the intermediate cover down into the gap between the engine and chassis before putting the upper cover on, as it was easier. I only fixed the upper cover with three of its bolts. The two that hold the bulkhead sensor were left off, as the sensor would be in the way. Now fit the intermediate cover, raising and lowering the engine as needed. The order of bolts I put on were the front upper, front lower, rear upper and finally rear lower. I found that making use of a telescopic pick up tool really helped in getting the bolts into the holes. You should be able to do them up most of the way without tools. The lower rear is the exception because of the bracket on it. Of course you pop the pipe channel back in remembering to push the pipes back into the clips on the rear of the intermediate cover. (Do this before you put the rear lower bolt back in.) Remember the cover is plastic, so don't over tighten. Once done, you can put the remaining two bolts into the upper cover along with the sensor routing, and re-attach the sensor to the bulkhead.
If you did take the engine mount off, put back on, with careful attention to the alignment. Torque the bolts to 55Nm (41 lbf ft).
Now put the engine mount upper bracket back on (be careful with the engine height as you do this). Torque to 45Nm (33 lbf ft). Then bolt the bracket to the engine mount with the nut. Make sure it is in the same position as before. Torque to 45Nm (33 lbf ft). Put the plastic cover back on.
You must put the lower belt cover on before you put the auxiliary belt on.
Now put the auxiliary belt back on (best to put a new one on really) and tension it. Again make sure the bracket is lifted up out of the way so you can tension the belt. To tension you turn the tensioner anti-clockwise to tighten, and use the allen bolt to lock in position. Haynes says that you are looking for about 1.5 to 2.5mm of movement on the belt under firm thumb pressure. This movement is measured between the alternator and the power steering pump. A loose belt will likely squeal, and an over tight belt will cause excess wear on bearings, so best to take care with this step.
Haynes also recommends you run the car for 10 minutes and then check the tension again. If you want to perform this test, you will of course need to refit the air filter and battery (if removed).
Refit the charcoal canister tube, re-route the nearside headlight aim adjust cable, refit the headlight and front grill and indicator.
Refit the two wheel arch shields, the air filter (if not already done,) connect the battery, wheel on, lower, bonnet on.
Job done
TIPS
Get some ratchet style spanners for turning the 10mm bolts on the intermediate cover, your hex bits, and your torx bits. You have very limited space for these spanners, so ratchet ones will save you loads of time!
Have a long flat-faced screwdriver handy. It was my most reached for tool!
If you have huge hands or forearms like Popeye, take the engine out, or get someone else to do it.
NOTES
In both cases of the tensioning measurements I have given you what Haynes says. However I never tensioned to what was said. My old timing belt had 10mm of movement under the test and had not come off. I got the new one to about 5mm, and it felt plenty tight. The auxiliary belt again has plenty of tension in it, but moves more than the given amounts. No squeal at all, and any more would feel far too much. So take the values with a pinch of salt IMHO.
I did use thread lock on a number of important bolts even though Haynes doesn’t mention it.
I hope this guide helps, feel free to add comments or pictures that show other details.
Thanks for reading!
enej
