Drop links-Narocilo
Objavljeno: 22 Okt 2008, 13:14
Kot v naslovo.V kratkem bom narocal drop linke(ne vem kako se to v slovencini imenuje).... v glavnem to je "stangica" ki poveze stabilizator z pritrdiscem na amortizerju. Namenjeni oz. razviti sa za Clio RS 197, r27 ter za Megane 225, r26 in r26r
Bom kar prilepil cel clanek, pa ce koga zanima naj prebere, za kaksne ne jastnosti pa naj kar vprasa.
Anti Roll Bars For this to make sense you need to understand what an Anti Roll Bar (ARB) is and what it does. The last bit is easy, it minimises body roll when the car is cornering and as a secondary function allows the OEM to tune how the car reacts when cornering really hard and fast (i.e. understeer or oversteer). The first bit is a bit more techy. The ARB is a bar which runs between two opposite suspension points. In the case of the 225/R26/197 it runs between both bottom wishbones, it is mounted above the wishbone and connected to it via long drop links. How it works is simple, think of it as a long spring. When there is a load across the car (for example when cornerning hard) the wishbone moves up as the weight moves across the car, this 'pushes' up on the link between the ARB and the wishbone and 'twists' the ARB, this amount of spring in the ARB dictates how much roll it will reduce. You can't go too stiff though as the energy put into it on one corner comes out on the other, hence why the 225/R26/Clio etc. cock their rear leg when cornering hard
An ARB is basicaly a third spring in the suspension which only works when one wheel is loaded differently to the other, if both wheels loads up the same the bar simply pivots on its mountings.
Pre-Load and why its not good There's a really techy explanation of preload but we'll keep it simple and put it like this. The ARB has a 'twist' in it when it shouldn't have i.e. when both front wheels are in the same posistion without any cornering force on them. This twist means the bar is stressed and as such is putting a load on the rest of the front suspension when there shouldn't be any load at all. The body/chassis has as such been "pre-loaded" in roll when it is sitting still. If this is bad enough the rideheight on one side will be different to the other side and as such the corner weights and tyre contact patch will be different as well!
What this means in practice is that the car will turn in one direction much more keenly than the other, because in one direction the stiffness of the ARB is much more than it is in the other. When turning in the "less keen" direction the ARB has to unwind the existing twist in it before it will start to do its job in that direction. This is great on an Oval Racer as you're always turning left but crap on a fast road car! It will also mean the car has a habit of pulling in one direction, even if the tracking is set perfectly, as the slight difference in side to side suspension load and tyre contact patch means one front corner overpowers the other. Anyone who has a Meg which pulls in one direction on a flat road has this problem.
What I'm Doing About It
Everything has a tolerance in manufacture and ARB's and their associated components are no different. As such the bar may not be the same "springyness" all what way across it, the holes that it connects to the wishbones via may be slightly different distances from the end of the bar etc. or even the weight of the car may be sufficently difference side to side to load one corner up more than the other. All of this means the bar is preloaded when you don't want it to be.
The solution is a set of adjustable ARB droplinks. These droplinks allow you to adjust out the preload in the ARB by altering the length of the droplink. In practice this means you can set the car up so that there is no preload on the chassis/suspension at all and as such it'll handle better and won't pull to one side. You can even get really flash and get a mate to adjust the preload out whilst you sit in the car, thereby accounting for the difference your mass makes to the side to side weight (and therefore suspension load).
The standard droplinks consist of a bit of metal bar with a ball joint on each end. What I've developed (primarily for our Clio Cup Endurance Racer) is a drop link made up of two very high quality spherical bearing 'rose joints' with a billet alluminium centre section (annodised for extra bling.... and it's the best way to properly protect ally from corrosion). The rose joints mean absolutely no play in any of the directions you don't want it and there mounting in the billet centre section means the effective height of the drop link can be altered by as much as 20mm. They're also stronger than the standard droplinks and rose joints and billet ally in your suspension will make you far more attractive and potent (........ to other car geeks).
First ones will be here next week and I'll post some pics up then. They'll be supplied with a set of shims so you can also adjust out any 'angle' in the drop link to ensure you have plenty of travel in each direction of movement - good for you FF boys if you have or are planning to lower your car or if you're building a coilovered track monster
Being able to say, in all honestly, that the car is setup "for you" is quite nice isn't it
Yep that's right. Fitment is very simple. Raise the car so both wheels are off the ground. Unbolt and remove the standard droplinks (this is easier on the ground but you can't get access), Set both new drop links to the same height as the standard links (I'll supply all the measurements with them), bolt on the drivers side link and the passenger side link into the ARB but not into the passenger side lower wishbone. Drop the car back on the ground and then adjust the drop link until the bolt slides through it and into the wishbone easily. Nip it up and Walla, zero pre load on the bar.
No more than an hours labour (absolute max) to have a garage do it if you don't like getting your hands dirty
Both sides are adjustable incase you have a very bad bar or other difference as this allows you to go "up" on one and "down" on the other giving you twice the distance of adjustment.
Kaj je v Kit-u:
Pics to follow once the production ones are here. Will put some pics of the Clio ones up soon as they're in. The 225 ones are slightly different due to the difference between the 225 and 197 front suspension.
In short kit includes:
- ARB droplinks comprised of billet ally anodised centres with spherical bearing ends.
- Poly spherical bearing dust shields
- Shims to space droplink from ARB to allow enhanced drop link movement/angle
- High Tensile fasteners, washers etc.
- Fitting instructions
Cena je cca. 240 EUR.Ce je kdo zaiteresiran naj se napise.Za zdaj smo trije
.
Lp
Bom kar prilepil cel clanek, pa ce koga zanima naj prebere, za kaksne ne jastnosti pa naj kar vprasa.
Anti Roll Bars For this to make sense you need to understand what an Anti Roll Bar (ARB) is and what it does. The last bit is easy, it minimises body roll when the car is cornering and as a secondary function allows the OEM to tune how the car reacts when cornering really hard and fast (i.e. understeer or oversteer). The first bit is a bit more techy. The ARB is a bar which runs between two opposite suspension points. In the case of the 225/R26/197 it runs between both bottom wishbones, it is mounted above the wishbone and connected to it via long drop links. How it works is simple, think of it as a long spring. When there is a load across the car (for example when cornerning hard) the wishbone moves up as the weight moves across the car, this 'pushes' up on the link between the ARB and the wishbone and 'twists' the ARB, this amount of spring in the ARB dictates how much roll it will reduce. You can't go too stiff though as the energy put into it on one corner comes out on the other, hence why the 225/R26/Clio etc. cock their rear leg when cornering hard
An ARB is basicaly a third spring in the suspension which only works when one wheel is loaded differently to the other, if both wheels loads up the same the bar simply pivots on its mountings.Pre-Load and why its not good There's a really techy explanation of preload but we'll keep it simple and put it like this. The ARB has a 'twist' in it when it shouldn't have i.e. when both front wheels are in the same posistion without any cornering force on them. This twist means the bar is stressed and as such is putting a load on the rest of the front suspension when there shouldn't be any load at all. The body/chassis has as such been "pre-loaded" in roll when it is sitting still. If this is bad enough the rideheight on one side will be different to the other side and as such the corner weights and tyre contact patch will be different as well!
What this means in practice is that the car will turn in one direction much more keenly than the other, because in one direction the stiffness of the ARB is much more than it is in the other. When turning in the "less keen" direction the ARB has to unwind the existing twist in it before it will start to do its job in that direction. This is great on an Oval Racer as you're always turning left but crap on a fast road car! It will also mean the car has a habit of pulling in one direction, even if the tracking is set perfectly, as the slight difference in side to side suspension load and tyre contact patch means one front corner overpowers the other. Anyone who has a Meg which pulls in one direction on a flat road has this problem.
What I'm Doing About It
Everything has a tolerance in manufacture and ARB's and their associated components are no different. As such the bar may not be the same "springyness" all what way across it, the holes that it connects to the wishbones via may be slightly different distances from the end of the bar etc. or even the weight of the car may be sufficently difference side to side to load one corner up more than the other. All of this means the bar is preloaded when you don't want it to be.
The solution is a set of adjustable ARB droplinks. These droplinks allow you to adjust out the preload in the ARB by altering the length of the droplink. In practice this means you can set the car up so that there is no preload on the chassis/suspension at all and as such it'll handle better and won't pull to one side. You can even get really flash and get a mate to adjust the preload out whilst you sit in the car, thereby accounting for the difference your mass makes to the side to side weight (and therefore suspension load).
The standard droplinks consist of a bit of metal bar with a ball joint on each end. What I've developed (primarily for our Clio Cup Endurance Racer) is a drop link made up of two very high quality spherical bearing 'rose joints' with a billet alluminium centre section (annodised for extra bling.... and it's the best way to properly protect ally from corrosion). The rose joints mean absolutely no play in any of the directions you don't want it and there mounting in the billet centre section means the effective height of the drop link can be altered by as much as 20mm. They're also stronger than the standard droplinks and rose joints and billet ally in your suspension will make you far more attractive and potent (........ to other car geeks
).First ones will be here next week and I'll post some pics up then. They'll be supplied with a set of shims so you can also adjust out any 'angle' in the drop link to ensure you have plenty of travel in each direction of movement - good for you FF boys if you have or are planning to lower your car or if you're building a coilovered track monster
Being able to say, in all honestly, that the car is setup "for you" is quite nice isn't it
Yep that's right. Fitment is very simple. Raise the car so both wheels are off the ground. Unbolt and remove the standard droplinks (this is easier on the ground but you can't get access), Set both new drop links to the same height as the standard links (I'll supply all the measurements with them), bolt on the drivers side link and the passenger side link into the ARB but not into the passenger side lower wishbone. Drop the car back on the ground and then adjust the drop link until the bolt slides through it and into the wishbone easily. Nip it up and Walla, zero pre load on the bar.
No more than an hours labour (absolute max) to have a garage do it if you don't like getting your hands dirty
Both sides are adjustable incase you have a very bad bar or other difference as this allows you to go "up" on one and "down" on the other giving you twice the distance of adjustment.
Kaj je v Kit-u:
Pics to follow once the production ones are here. Will put some pics of the Clio ones up soon as they're in. The 225 ones are slightly different due to the difference between the 225 and 197 front suspension.
In short kit includes:
- ARB droplinks comprised of billet ally anodised centres with spherical bearing ends.
- Poly spherical bearing dust shields
- Shims to space droplink from ARB to allow enhanced drop link movement/angle
- High Tensile fasteners, washers etc.
- Fitting instructions
Cena je cca. 240 EUR.Ce je kdo zaiteresiran naj se napise.Za zdaj smo trije
.Lp
