Dimenzije na Renault vozilih:
Vec al manj vsa mozna platisca:
http://www.wheelspecs.com/specs/
TireCalculator:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
RoZlehtova skrinjica informacij
RoZlehtova skrinjica informacij
bom napisal tuki par stvari ce bo komu kdaj kaj prov prslo ...
Dimenzije na Renault vozilih:
Vec al manj vsa mozna platisca:
http://www.wheelspecs.com/specs/
TireCalculator:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Dimenzije na Renault vozilih:
Vec al manj vsa mozna platisca:
http://www.wheelspecs.com/specs/
TireCalculator:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Zadnjič spremenil RoZleht, dne 02 Maj 2006, 14:16, skupaj popravljeno 5 krat.
Lp RoZleht
Engine Oil Article
extracted from SilverWolf's post on 3/5/01
What Motor Oil Does?
Oil lubricates all the moving parts of the engine, by providing a protective film that reduces wear and friction. It also helps keep engine parts clean and free from harmful deposits, protect against rust and corrosion. Finally, oil cools the engine, by removing excessive heat from the combustion area and down into the oil pan.
What is Viscosity ans Viscosity Index?
Viscosity is, simply the measure of an oil's thickness and ability to flow at certain temperatures and this property of oils is represented with a grade called Viscosity index (VI). The Viscosity Index tells us how much the oil will thin when it is subject to heat. The higher the index, the less an oil will thin when it is subject to heat. Generally, the thicker an oil, the higher its viscosity and the thinner an oil the lower its viscosity. The Viscosity Index of an oil determines how it reacts under certain conditions. An oil with a too high viscosity may not pump to the proper parts of your engine especially at low temperatures, and the film may tear at high RPM. An oil with a too low viscosity can lose its film strength at high temperatures.
Choosing Multi Viscosity Oils
Choosing the most suitable oil for your climate zone is very important also. A heavy base oil would turn to jelly in cold temperatures if some polymers are not added. To prevent this, multi viscosity oils are produced by adding some polymers to a lighter base, thus these oils are thin enough to work at cold temperatures, and safe enough to work at high temperatures. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as the low number indicate (like in 5W-30). As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains and prevent the oil from thinning. Thus, a 5W base oil doesn't thin more than a 30 weight would when it is hot. This is like using two different oils, one for winter and one for summer in one. In the winter base your choice must be the lowest temperature you expect, and in the summer base the highest. The narrowest span with a more heavy base is better if your temperature zone allows, cause a wide span means more polymers, and more polymers are not good for your engine.
10W-30 or 10W-40?
10W-30 has a narrower span than 10W-40, thus requires few polymers. 10W-40 requires more polymers than 10W-30 to work at hot temp.
10W-40 or 20W-50?
10W-40 has the same 30 point spread with 20W-50, but 20W-50 needs less polymers than 10w-40. Besides this, use 20W-50 only if your temp. zone allows. Look at the chart below
If lowest expected outdoor temperature is Typical SAE viscosity grades for passanger cars
0 degrees Celcius (32F)..........................................5W-30 10W-30 10W-40 20W-50
-18 C (0F).................................................................5W-30 10W-30 10W-40
below -18 C............................................................5W-30
Also look for API Service "SJ" mark, that means the oil can be used in all automotive engines currently in use. Some manufacturers use no polymers in some of their products to obtain that viscosity. That means if you go out and buy a 5W-30 Mobil1 that can cost you much, but you must know that it doesn't contain any polymers that can form deposits to obtain that range of viscosity.
Mineral and Synthetic Oils
Mineral oils are conventional oils that man used for decades, which comes from the earth as crude oil and then refined and mixed with some additives like detergents, viscosity improvers and anti-wear agents. Synthetic oils are completely man-made at the laboratories, and are capable of maintaining their viscosity for longer periods of use and under much greater temperatures and pressures than conventional mineral oils. The other type is semi-synthetic, the blend of the two.
Mixing Two Other Types
It is said synthetic oils are compatible with the conventional mineral oils, thus it is safe to mix two different types, but for sealing purposes and the final performance of your engine i suggest you choose one at the beginning, and never change your oil type..It is known that the content of mineral oils are different than synthetic oils, and mineral oil soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. So, you may think using flushing oil first, before swithching another type as some people suggest. Yes, the flushing oil removes all the deposits and dissolves all the mineral oil deposits in your engine and you may think everything is ok for switching to synthetic oil, but using a thin oil for flushing may remove deposits that built-in time and work for sealing your rings and gasgets. It is known that engines over 250,000 km worked without a problem, but when flushed it failed in a month. So choose one at the very beginning, flush your engine if necessary, but don't change it.
Additives
There are different kinds of engine oil additives today, and a lot of adds for them on tv especially at night, telling their product is the best. Now imagine that.. Oil companies spend millions of dollars each year to improve their formulas, and so are the automobile manufacturers. First, can you believe that there is a magic formula, and oil companies that spend millions of dollars to R&D for years labouring the best chemical engineers especially for that reason couldn't find that magic formula, and only that additive manufacturers found? Second, if they really work and not harmful to your engine, why automobile manufacturers put one bottle of them to every car they produce? Thus, they can improve their engine's performance and reduce fuel consumption..Third, none of that famous oil additives carry the name of the major oil companies.
Teflon
Some oil additives may seem working at the very beginning, but those which contain particles like Teflon may block the oil filter and the oilways of your engine. DuPont Chemical Company, inventor of PTFE and holder of the trademarks of Teflon says "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines".
Zinc
Another kind of engine oil additive is that the one containing zinc. Zinc is used as an anti-wear additive in oils and useful when there is really a metal to metal contact in your engine, which should normally never occur under normal conditions. Every major brand engine oil already contains enough zinc, so why add more? More zinc doesn't give you more protection, it just prolongs the protection if the rate of metal-to-metal contact is abnormally high. Adding a can of zinc-reach additive will just work for forming deposits on your valves, and will cause spark plug fouling, believe me..
Result
Every oil is blended for the optimum result, so adding an additive can result in harmful mixtures.Just buy the best brand on the shelf, never change it, and when you start your engine, let it idle for about 15 seconds before moving off, thus you can be sure that the oil is warmed up a little bit and can reach to the most vital areas of your engine before you push the accelerator pedal. Every manufacturer today tell you not to let the engine warm-up before driving off, but they mean don't let it reach to normal working temperature.. You can probably add another 100,000 km to your engine's life without one bottle of additive by doing this.
Informacije o motornih oljih:
http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/API_M ... e_2004.pdf
extracted from SilverWolf's post on 3/5/01
What Motor Oil Does?
Oil lubricates all the moving parts of the engine, by providing a protective film that reduces wear and friction. It also helps keep engine parts clean and free from harmful deposits, protect against rust and corrosion. Finally, oil cools the engine, by removing excessive heat from the combustion area and down into the oil pan.
What is Viscosity ans Viscosity Index?
Viscosity is, simply the measure of an oil's thickness and ability to flow at certain temperatures and this property of oils is represented with a grade called Viscosity index (VI). The Viscosity Index tells us how much the oil will thin when it is subject to heat. The higher the index, the less an oil will thin when it is subject to heat. Generally, the thicker an oil, the higher its viscosity and the thinner an oil the lower its viscosity. The Viscosity Index of an oil determines how it reacts under certain conditions. An oil with a too high viscosity may not pump to the proper parts of your engine especially at low temperatures, and the film may tear at high RPM. An oil with a too low viscosity can lose its film strength at high temperatures.
Choosing Multi Viscosity Oils
Choosing the most suitable oil for your climate zone is very important also. A heavy base oil would turn to jelly in cold temperatures if some polymers are not added. To prevent this, multi viscosity oils are produced by adding some polymers to a lighter base, thus these oils are thin enough to work at cold temperatures, and safe enough to work at high temperatures. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as the low number indicate (like in 5W-30). As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains and prevent the oil from thinning. Thus, a 5W base oil doesn't thin more than a 30 weight would when it is hot. This is like using two different oils, one for winter and one for summer in one. In the winter base your choice must be the lowest temperature you expect, and in the summer base the highest. The narrowest span with a more heavy base is better if your temperature zone allows, cause a wide span means more polymers, and more polymers are not good for your engine.
10W-30 or 10W-40?
10W-30 has a narrower span than 10W-40, thus requires few polymers. 10W-40 requires more polymers than 10W-30 to work at hot temp.
10W-40 or 20W-50?
10W-40 has the same 30 point spread with 20W-50, but 20W-50 needs less polymers than 10w-40. Besides this, use 20W-50 only if your temp. zone allows. Look at the chart below
If lowest expected outdoor temperature is Typical SAE viscosity grades for passanger cars
0 degrees Celcius (32F)..........................................5W-30 10W-30 10W-40 20W-50
-18 C (0F).................................................................5W-30 10W-30 10W-40
below -18 C............................................................5W-30
Also look for API Service "SJ" mark, that means the oil can be used in all automotive engines currently in use. Some manufacturers use no polymers in some of their products to obtain that viscosity. That means if you go out and buy a 5W-30 Mobil1 that can cost you much, but you must know that it doesn't contain any polymers that can form deposits to obtain that range of viscosity.
Mineral and Synthetic Oils
Mineral oils are conventional oils that man used for decades, which comes from the earth as crude oil and then refined and mixed with some additives like detergents, viscosity improvers and anti-wear agents. Synthetic oils are completely man-made at the laboratories, and are capable of maintaining their viscosity for longer periods of use and under much greater temperatures and pressures than conventional mineral oils. The other type is semi-synthetic, the blend of the two.
Mixing Two Other Types
It is said synthetic oils are compatible with the conventional mineral oils, thus it is safe to mix two different types, but for sealing purposes and the final performance of your engine i suggest you choose one at the beginning, and never change your oil type..It is known that the content of mineral oils are different than synthetic oils, and mineral oil soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. So, you may think using flushing oil first, before swithching another type as some people suggest. Yes, the flushing oil removes all the deposits and dissolves all the mineral oil deposits in your engine and you may think everything is ok for switching to synthetic oil, but using a thin oil for flushing may remove deposits that built-in time and work for sealing your rings and gasgets. It is known that engines over 250,000 km worked without a problem, but when flushed it failed in a month. So choose one at the very beginning, flush your engine if necessary, but don't change it.
Additives
There are different kinds of engine oil additives today, and a lot of adds for them on tv especially at night, telling their product is the best. Now imagine that.. Oil companies spend millions of dollars each year to improve their formulas, and so are the automobile manufacturers. First, can you believe that there is a magic formula, and oil companies that spend millions of dollars to R&D for years labouring the best chemical engineers especially for that reason couldn't find that magic formula, and only that additive manufacturers found? Second, if they really work and not harmful to your engine, why automobile manufacturers put one bottle of them to every car they produce? Thus, they can improve their engine's performance and reduce fuel consumption..Third, none of that famous oil additives carry the name of the major oil companies.
Teflon
Some oil additives may seem working at the very beginning, but those which contain particles like Teflon may block the oil filter and the oilways of your engine. DuPont Chemical Company, inventor of PTFE and holder of the trademarks of Teflon says "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines".
Zinc
Another kind of engine oil additive is that the one containing zinc. Zinc is used as an anti-wear additive in oils and useful when there is really a metal to metal contact in your engine, which should normally never occur under normal conditions. Every major brand engine oil already contains enough zinc, so why add more? More zinc doesn't give you more protection, it just prolongs the protection if the rate of metal-to-metal contact is abnormally high. Adding a can of zinc-reach additive will just work for forming deposits on your valves, and will cause spark plug fouling, believe me..
Result
Every oil is blended for the optimum result, so adding an additive can result in harmful mixtures.Just buy the best brand on the shelf, never change it, and when you start your engine, let it idle for about 15 seconds before moving off, thus you can be sure that the oil is warmed up a little bit and can reach to the most vital areas of your engine before you push the accelerator pedal. Every manufacturer today tell you not to let the engine warm-up before driving off, but they mean don't let it reach to normal working temperature.. You can probably add another 100,000 km to your engine's life without one bottle of additive by doing this.
Informacije o motornih oljih:
http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/API_M ... e_2004.pdf
Zadnjič spremenil RoZleht, dne 03 Maj 2006, 09:35, skupaj popravljeno 2 krat.
Lp RoZleht
Nasveti pri nakupovanju rabljenih avtomobilov:
Tips on buying an used car
extracted from Chee Farn's post on 10/4/00
As to what to look out for in buying a used car, I can't claim to be an expert on these things. However, I have been searching the net for quite sometime on this issue and I've picked up some pointers from various US car mags on how to buy a used car....here goes;
General:
Do not buy any high mileage cars. It doesn't matter if it looked all right from the outside. Vital parts such as the timing belts and drive shafts will be near or even beyond their lifespan for these high mileage cars. We have no way in knowing if the previous owner had replaced these parts. We can only assume they didn't. Try to choose a 1 owner car. 2 owner car can only be considered if you're damn certain the car is alright.
Exterior of the car:
1)Try to inspect the car in bright sunlight if possible. Any defects in the bodywork will show up better.
2)Although the seller may assure you that the paint is original, you can do a check on the paintwork yourself. First, open the hood, the boot and/or the doors, check the color of the paint under those areas, is it the same color as the top surface? If not, the top surface paint has been resprayed. Some previous owners may opt to respray the same color as the original, then you'd need to do the following.
3)Check all rubber seals and insulation materials on those said areas. Is there any traces of paint on them? If so, the car has been resprayed. No amount of masking can cover each and every area effectively. Check the various body emblems on the car, are they still there? How about their respective positions on the car? Eg, do you see the word 'Laguna' near the top of the boot instead on the lower right corner valence panel? All these suggest that the car has been resprayed.
4)Bring a magnet along and run it over the car completely. Hover the magnet close enought over the car so that you can feel the magnetism acting on the body panels. Go over slowly and feel the magnetism. Any body panels patched up with body filler/ putty will not impart any magnetism from your magnet. This is a good way to check if the car has been invloved in any accident.
Interior of the car:
1)Open and close all doors yourself. Do they feel right? Test all handles and switches. Do they feel flimsy? (Note: this step cannot be performed on Malaysian, Korean and some low end Jap cars, for they already feature flimsy interior pieces even when brand new!!)
2)Inspect any wear and tear on the interior fittings. Do they look excessively worn? If the car feature leather seats, check the condition of the leather, is it cracked and/or peeling off the edges?
Starting the car:
1) Try to start the car yourself. Can it be started on the first crank? Have a friend stand at the rear of the car to inspect the exhaust. Is it bleeching black smoke? Rev the engine hard a few times (near redline), is the car bleeching any more black smoke? No or light grey smoke is ok, black or blue smoke is a big no no!
2) Test all accessories. Do they work properly? Turn it A/C on and off. Check all warning lights. Does the engine still idle properly when you do all these?
3) Inspect the engine again. Is there any weird noises coming from it? Check the radiator cap, is there oil or water forming on it? There shouldn't be any.
4) Check all ext lights. Do they work properly? Ask your friend to inspect the brake lights. DO they light up properly when you step on the brake?
5) Shift into 'D' but keep the parking brake on. Does the car move forward automatically? It shouldn't.
6) Drive the car foward a few feet. Check if there's any oil patches on the ground. it could suggest an oil leak.
Test drive:
1) If that car had passed all these and you're satisfied so far, it's time to go for a test drive. Go easy on the car initally so that you can get used to the car.
2) In a safe stretch of road, floor the gas padel hard. Does the auto trans drop a gear (or 2) and powered ahead immediately? Is there excessive jerks when the trans is shifting?
3) Go through all the gears manually, ie, shift into 3,2,1 yourself. Does the trans fall into the correct gear?
4) Again in a safe area, get on some speed (about 80-100 km/h) & slam on the brakes as hard as you can. Do not get go on the brakes. Let the tires smoke out for all you care. Let go on the steering wheel when you do this, does the car still track straight when you do this? If the car comes with ABS, does the ABS work?
5) When the car has come to a complete stop, check the engine again. Does it still idle properly? Or has it died? It shouldn't die.
6) Last by not least, try to turn both L&R corners as quickly as you can. Does the suspension bottom out when you do this? Go over a speed bump fast, does the suspension takes forever to settle down? Wallowing suspension may suggest worn shocks and/or springs. If you can do all these and the car is still in one piece when you return to the dealer's parking lot, the car is probably a good buy. Also, as a further precaution, ask if you can send the car to STA for evaluation. STA can check other parts for defects where we can't. Hope this helps!
...
Anyway, I seems to have left out some important points in my last post Q.
Mainly, it's about the whole steering rack assembly. See, as you've probably know, most Euro cars offer much better steering feel than Jap/ Korean cars. By that I mean Euro cars offer much better road feel and a firm feel steering. Hence I suggest you'd do the following during your test drive.
Driving on a straight stretch of road, let go on your steering wheel, does the car still track straight? Or is it veering off to one side? If the car is pulling to one side (either left or right), it means that the front wheels are out of alignment from each other. There are several possible causes to this. The most likely scenario would be that the previous owner had mounted the kerb once too many! Or that he had crashed through speed bumps at too high a speed too often. These gang-ho actions may have bent the tie rods and/or caused the rack-and-pinion rack to go out of alignment slightly.
The other possible scenario could be that the rims themselves are damaged. Yes, the rims could be knocked out of true circle by the aformentioned kerb mounting excercise. This fault can be detected easily however. If you can feel excessive vibrations coming from the steering wheel and/or that there is uneven wear on the front tires, it's highly possible that the rims themselves are damaged. Either way, repairs for such faults are expensive and often come to nothing.
Last but not not least, as I've said above, most Euro cars offer firm feel steering w/ good road feel. During your test drive, check for the amount of freeplay and the weight of the steering wheel. For freeplay, with the wheel pointed straight ahead, turn the steering wheel slightly in each direction. Check the angle of wheel turned b4 the front tires began to turn. Most Euro/US cars have very little freeplay and that the turn angle shouldn't exceed 5-8 degrees. Do not accept anything more than that.
As for the weight of the steering, check that the steering wheel needs your whole hand to turn and not just your index finger!! You're not playing Daytona at a games arcade, the steering shouldn't be that light and lifeless! Also, check if the steering loads up greatly as you turn towards max locks in the each direction. It shouldn't. Incidently, the new Toyota Corona and the Mazda 626 features this kind of nonsense in a vain effort to introduce sportiness in their cars. But you're test driving a Renault, and Renault engineers doen't require this kind of nonsense to make a great steering gear.
Tips on buying an used car
extracted from Chee Farn's post on 10/4/00
As to what to look out for in buying a used car, I can't claim to be an expert on these things. However, I have been searching the net for quite sometime on this issue and I've picked up some pointers from various US car mags on how to buy a used car....here goes;
General:
Do not buy any high mileage cars. It doesn't matter if it looked all right from the outside. Vital parts such as the timing belts and drive shafts will be near or even beyond their lifespan for these high mileage cars. We have no way in knowing if the previous owner had replaced these parts. We can only assume they didn't. Try to choose a 1 owner car. 2 owner car can only be considered if you're damn certain the car is alright.
Exterior of the car:
1)Try to inspect the car in bright sunlight if possible. Any defects in the bodywork will show up better.
2)Although the seller may assure you that the paint is original, you can do a check on the paintwork yourself. First, open the hood, the boot and/or the doors, check the color of the paint under those areas, is it the same color as the top surface? If not, the top surface paint has been resprayed. Some previous owners may opt to respray the same color as the original, then you'd need to do the following.
3)Check all rubber seals and insulation materials on those said areas. Is there any traces of paint on them? If so, the car has been resprayed. No amount of masking can cover each and every area effectively. Check the various body emblems on the car, are they still there? How about their respective positions on the car? Eg, do you see the word 'Laguna' near the top of the boot instead on the lower right corner valence panel? All these suggest that the car has been resprayed.
4)Bring a magnet along and run it over the car completely. Hover the magnet close enought over the car so that you can feel the magnetism acting on the body panels. Go over slowly and feel the magnetism. Any body panels patched up with body filler/ putty will not impart any magnetism from your magnet. This is a good way to check if the car has been invloved in any accident.
Interior of the car:
1)Open and close all doors yourself. Do they feel right? Test all handles and switches. Do they feel flimsy? (Note: this step cannot be performed on Malaysian, Korean and some low end Jap cars, for they already feature flimsy interior pieces even when brand new!!)
2)Inspect any wear and tear on the interior fittings. Do they look excessively worn? If the car feature leather seats, check the condition of the leather, is it cracked and/or peeling off the edges?
Starting the car:
1) Try to start the car yourself. Can it be started on the first crank? Have a friend stand at the rear of the car to inspect the exhaust. Is it bleeching black smoke? Rev the engine hard a few times (near redline), is the car bleeching any more black smoke? No or light grey smoke is ok, black or blue smoke is a big no no!
2) Test all accessories. Do they work properly? Turn it A/C on and off. Check all warning lights. Does the engine still idle properly when you do all these?
3) Inspect the engine again. Is there any weird noises coming from it? Check the radiator cap, is there oil or water forming on it? There shouldn't be any.
4) Check all ext lights. Do they work properly? Ask your friend to inspect the brake lights. DO they light up properly when you step on the brake?
5) Shift into 'D' but keep the parking brake on. Does the car move forward automatically? It shouldn't.
6) Drive the car foward a few feet. Check if there's any oil patches on the ground. it could suggest an oil leak.
Test drive:
1) If that car had passed all these and you're satisfied so far, it's time to go for a test drive. Go easy on the car initally so that you can get used to the car.
2) In a safe stretch of road, floor the gas padel hard. Does the auto trans drop a gear (or 2) and powered ahead immediately? Is there excessive jerks when the trans is shifting?
3) Go through all the gears manually, ie, shift into 3,2,1 yourself. Does the trans fall into the correct gear?
4) Again in a safe area, get on some speed (about 80-100 km/h) & slam on the brakes as hard as you can. Do not get go on the brakes. Let the tires smoke out for all you care. Let go on the steering wheel when you do this, does the car still track straight when you do this? If the car comes with ABS, does the ABS work?
5) When the car has come to a complete stop, check the engine again. Does it still idle properly? Or has it died? It shouldn't die.
6) Last by not least, try to turn both L&R corners as quickly as you can. Does the suspension bottom out when you do this? Go over a speed bump fast, does the suspension takes forever to settle down? Wallowing suspension may suggest worn shocks and/or springs. If you can do all these and the car is still in one piece when you return to the dealer's parking lot, the car is probably a good buy. Also, as a further precaution, ask if you can send the car to STA for evaluation. STA can check other parts for defects where we can't. Hope this helps!
...
Anyway, I seems to have left out some important points in my last post Q.
Mainly, it's about the whole steering rack assembly. See, as you've probably know, most Euro cars offer much better steering feel than Jap/ Korean cars. By that I mean Euro cars offer much better road feel and a firm feel steering. Hence I suggest you'd do the following during your test drive.
Driving on a straight stretch of road, let go on your steering wheel, does the car still track straight? Or is it veering off to one side? If the car is pulling to one side (either left or right), it means that the front wheels are out of alignment from each other. There are several possible causes to this. The most likely scenario would be that the previous owner had mounted the kerb once too many! Or that he had crashed through speed bumps at too high a speed too often. These gang-ho actions may have bent the tie rods and/or caused the rack-and-pinion rack to go out of alignment slightly.
The other possible scenario could be that the rims themselves are damaged. Yes, the rims could be knocked out of true circle by the aformentioned kerb mounting excercise. This fault can be detected easily however. If you can feel excessive vibrations coming from the steering wheel and/or that there is uneven wear on the front tires, it's highly possible that the rims themselves are damaged. Either way, repairs for such faults are expensive and often come to nothing.
Last but not not least, as I've said above, most Euro cars offer firm feel steering w/ good road feel. During your test drive, check for the amount of freeplay and the weight of the steering wheel. For freeplay, with the wheel pointed straight ahead, turn the steering wheel slightly in each direction. Check the angle of wheel turned b4 the front tires began to turn. Most Euro/US cars have very little freeplay and that the turn angle shouldn't exceed 5-8 degrees. Do not accept anything more than that.
As for the weight of the steering, check that the steering wheel needs your whole hand to turn and not just your index finger!! You're not playing Daytona at a games arcade, the steering shouldn't be that light and lifeless! Also, check if the steering loads up greatly as you turn towards max locks in the each direction. It shouldn't. Incidently, the new Toyota Corona and the Mazda 626 features this kind of nonsense in a vain effort to introduce sportiness in their cars. But you're test driving a Renault, and Renault engineers doen't require this kind of nonsense to make a great steering gear.
Zadnjič spremenil RoZleht, dne 03 Maj 2006, 09:38, skupaj popravljeno 1 krat.
Lp RoZleht
Svecke:
Normal - Light grey or tan deposits and slight electrode erosion
_________________________________________________________
Carbon Fouling - Dry, soft black carbon on the insulator and electrodes.
Symptoms:
- Poor starting
- Misfiring
- Faulty acceleration
Causes:
- Faulty choke - over rich air/fuel mixture
- Delayed ignition timing
- Bad ignition leads
- Plug heat range too cold
_________________________________________________________
Pre-Ignition - A melted or burned center and/or ground electrode, blistered insulator and aluminum or other metallic deposits on the insulator
Symptoms:
- Loss of power causing engine damage
- Pre-ignition occurs when combustion begins before the timed spark occurs.
Causes:
- Plug insufficiently tightened
- Engine insufficiently cooled
- Ignition timing too advanced
- Plug heat range too hot
_________________________________________________________
Over Heating - An extremely white insulator with small black deposits and premature electrode erosion.
Symptoms:
- Loss of power at high-speed or during heavy load
Causes:
- Plug insufficiently tightened
- Engine insufficiently cooled
- Ignition timing too advanced
- Plug heat range too hot
_________________________________________________________
Mechanical Damage - Bent electrode and a broken insulator, dents often present on electrode
Symptoms:
- Misfiring
Causes:
- Plug nose is too long for engine head
- Foreign object (bolt/nut) in combustion chamber
_________________________________________________________
Oil Fouling - Wet, oily black deposits on the insulator and electrodes
Symptoms:
- Poor starting
- Misfiring
Causes:
- Wrong piston rings, cylinders, and valve guides
- Fuel mixture oil content too high (two-stroke engines)
_________________________________________________________
Broken Insulator - Insulator is cracked or split
Symptoms:
- Misfiring
Causes:
- Severe detonation
- Incorrect tool/torque applied during installation or removal
- Careless gap setting
_________________________________________________________
Torched Seat - Melted in the thread and seat area of the plug housing
Symptoms:
- Loss of power causing engine damage
Causes:
- Plug insufficiently tightened
Normal - Light grey or tan deposits and slight electrode erosion
_________________________________________________________
Carbon Fouling - Dry, soft black carbon on the insulator and electrodes.
Symptoms:
- Poor starting
- Misfiring
- Faulty acceleration
Causes:
- Faulty choke - over rich air/fuel mixture
- Delayed ignition timing
- Bad ignition leads
- Plug heat range too cold
_________________________________________________________
Pre-Ignition - A melted or burned center and/or ground electrode, blistered insulator and aluminum or other metallic deposits on the insulator
Symptoms:
- Loss of power causing engine damage
- Pre-ignition occurs when combustion begins before the timed spark occurs.
Causes:
- Plug insufficiently tightened
- Engine insufficiently cooled
- Ignition timing too advanced
- Plug heat range too hot
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Over Heating - An extremely white insulator with small black deposits and premature electrode erosion.
Symptoms:
- Loss of power at high-speed or during heavy load
Causes:
- Plug insufficiently tightened
- Engine insufficiently cooled
- Ignition timing too advanced
- Plug heat range too hot
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Mechanical Damage - Bent electrode and a broken insulator, dents often present on electrode
Symptoms:
- Misfiring
Causes:
- Plug nose is too long for engine head
- Foreign object (bolt/nut) in combustion chamber
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Oil Fouling - Wet, oily black deposits on the insulator and electrodes
Symptoms:
- Poor starting
- Misfiring
Causes:
- Wrong piston rings, cylinders, and valve guides
- Fuel mixture oil content too high (two-stroke engines)
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Broken Insulator - Insulator is cracked or split
Symptoms:
- Misfiring
Causes:
- Severe detonation
- Incorrect tool/torque applied during installation or removal
- Careless gap setting
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Torched Seat - Melted in the thread and seat area of the plug housing
Symptoms:
- Loss of power causing engine damage
Causes:
- Plug insufficiently tightened
Lp RoZleht